Notes of a traveller

Alan Dodds – photographer (among other things)

Notes of a traveller


Taiwan, Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand et al.

Posted on Saturday, December 16th, 2023 at 1:50 pm

Firstly, I apologise for another travel tale so soon after the last, but unless I get it out now it will disappear rapidly into the big black hole of the past. These articles are, at least in part, an aid to Jacqui and I to remember what we did, and when. Oh, the joys of getting older!

The Westerdam

Thought I might start with a mention of the ship we are living on. The Westerdam is a mid sized ship accommodating around two thousand cruisers. We always appreciate unpacking at the beginning of the cruise and repacking at the end. In between we are fed, watered, entertained and live in comfort as well as visiting interesting places.

Holland America Westerdam

In the “World Theatre” the upcoming port talks are always really popular. (Aside: Note that our greying hair matches perfectly!)
Holland America Westerdam

We wait for another show by the excellent dance group “One Step”. There is a show of one sort or another every evening.
Holland America Westerdam

This is one of our main reasons for being here. Someone else does the cooking! Muesli and berries for brekkie … yum!
Holland America Westerdam

This artwork is outside the jewellery shop. Women often seem to get the rough end of the stick.
Holland America Westerdam

Another artwork. It’s all about the money (sorry gold)

Taiwan

So leaving Shinigaki and Japan, leaves us wondering what is to come next. We have always been curious about Taiwan and look forward to the coming visit.

Keelung

Keelung is the first of two ports in Taiwan and is relatively small, without the high tower blocks of many cities these days. It is the jump off point for Taipei for those who can afford the tours. We will content ourselves with a walk around this town.

From the ship we can see the white head of the statue of Guanyin, goddess of compassion, high on the hill in the Zhongzheng Park. This is the biggest such statue in southeast Asia. So off we go to have a closer look. It doesn’t look that far away. Mmmmm!

Keelung, Taiwan

From the ship, this looks like a very walkable city.
Keelung, Taiwan

They do like to decorate their buses
Keelung, Taiwan

Scooters are the thing here. The parking is very disciplined. Neat rows and lots of them.
Keelung, Taiwan

Ah. The first flight of (very steep) steps up to the temple. We really puff up these.
Keelung, Taiwan

Luckily, the path from the top of the steps is less steep; the city opens up before us showing an amazingly complex maze of pipes
Keelung, Taiwan

We are really parked in the city centre.
Keelung, Taiwan

A small side shrine with incredible dragons
Keelung, Taiwan

Laughing Buddha and friends with Guanyin on the skyline
Keelung, Taiwan

The main event – a 25m high Guanyin protected by huge lions.
Keelung, Taiwan

Inside the main temple is a seated, many armed Guanyin and lots of flowers.
Keelung, Taiwan

Back at the bottom of the steps a reminder of the realities of life amid the threats of the Chinese government.

Well, the statue of Guanyin is a long way up and we make it back in need of a rest.

Kaohsiung

Our next stop is Kaohsiung City; a major industrial port in the south of Taiwan. The ship docks at the cruise port after several kilometres along a waterway lined with container facilities. The cruise port is very modern. We need to find a pharmacy and our visit consists of walking there and back. All other attractions are too far away for us.

Taiwan, Kaohsuing

The ultra modern Kaohsuing cruise port.
Taiwan, Kaohsuing

The 350m high ’85 Sky Tower’ dominates the skyline. Thing is … it’s almost empty and many floors have not been used in decades.
Taiwan, Kaohsuing

Scooters are the go, and small open stalls can still be found in the side streets.
Taiwan, Kaohsuing

As we leave at sunset, the tower blocks blaze in the reflected light.
Taiwan, Kaohsuing

Endless container ships line the channel
Taiwan, Kaohsuing

At last, we move into the open sea.

Hong Kong and Kowloon

And so we move on to Hong Kong and after all that reporting of disturbances in past years, it will be interesting to be here for two days. Our arrival at the enormous cruise terminal in Kowloon is greeted with dark clouds and showers but we line up to take the shuttle bus into town, and arrive at … a huge shopping centre. Not really what we had in mind. Except, of course, we find a Starbucks and welcome mugs of flat white, before the rain drives us back to the ship.

Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

The Kowloon cruise terminal stretches into the distance.
Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

The terminal is built on part of the world renowned ‘Kai Tak Heart Attack’ runway of the original airport. This old pic shows why it had that name.
Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

The Plaza Hollywood shopping centre at the end of the shuttle bus run.

A new day and some sunshine so we once again line up for the shuttle. Yesterday we noticed signs for a garden temple and nunnery, so today we are off to explore. The garden is called the Nan Lian Garden and is slap bang in the middle of Kowloon right next to the Plaza Hollywood.

Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

The soft sun lights the towers of Hong Kong island across the bay
Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

The small temple in the middle of the beautiful Nan Lian garden.
Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

Crossing the bridge over the main road, we reach the Chi Lin Nunnery with its impressive temple complex set amid the tower blocks of Kowloon
Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

Bonsais (and temple guards) aplenty. Just try and take a pic of the main temple shrine.
Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

Living the high life in Kowloon.
Hong Kong and Kowloon, China

As we leave, the lights of Hong Kong bid us farewell.

The Philippines

We make two visits to the Philippines, one on the way to Hong Kong and the other after. There are three stops on three different islands for Manila, Borocaya and Porto Princessa.

Manila is a huge city of around fifteen million people; not really our cup of tea, as it were.

Our first stop in Manila sees us once again on that shuttle bus; once again being taken to a shopping mall; once again returning to the ship having downed some Starbucks coffee. Not feeling impressed.

For our second visit we are making a valiant effort to be more enthusiastic and so start by walking out of the port. The port road dumps us onto a major three lane road full to the brim with traffic of every size: container trucks, jeepneys, scooters, cars, buses and little men on peddle powered tricycles. Since our aim is to get to the Rizal Park, we have to cross this road. A couple of attempts end in abject failure, even when the traffic was stopped.

One attempt finds us surrounded by stationary trucks. Then we remember that none of the drivers would be able to see us should the traffic start moving. We beat a hasty retreat.

We walk alongside all this traffic for a while until there is a crossing with four police persons in charge and at last manage to reach the other side of the road. Phew! Onwards to Rizal Park.

The Philippines, Manila

Approaching Manila in the early morning light
The Philippines, Manila

A welcoming committee, no less. Amazing drummers!
The Philippines, Manila

Oh dear – another shuttle bus queue. Jacqui is very glad to have her stick seat.
The Philippines, Manila

And where does the shuttle take us … Robinson Mall getting ready for Christmas. Doh!
The Philippines, Manila

Everywhere you look there are men with guns.

José Rizal

José Rizal is a hero of the Philippines. He was a writer and a key member of the Filipino Propaganda Movement which advocated for changes in the colony under the Spanish occupation. It was his inspiration that led eventually to Philippine independence from first the Spanish and then the Americans. He was executed by the Spanish in 1896 and Rizal park is a moving memorial to that event.

The Philippines, Manila

At the entrance to his place of execution.
The Philippines, Manila

Jacqui contemplates the entrance sculpture.
The Philippines, Manila

A larger than life scene of that day in 1896 when Rizal was executed.

We spend some time in this part of the park, and then move on to the Chinese and Japanese gardens before entering the old part of Manila. The Intramuros is the old walled city which has managed to resist the tower block plague. We are tempted by one of those little men on a tricycle and he takes us for an extremely uncomfortable ride through the old city and back to the port. Most Filipinos are altogether smaller than we western giants and the tricycle was designed to fit them … not us.

The Philippines, Manila

We managed to survive this journey but gathered a few aches and pains in the process.
The Philippines, Manila

We ask ourselves: ‘Would a ride in this jeepney have been better?’
The Philippines, Manila

Well … that was Manila.

Borocaya

Borocaya is a resort island and many passengers on the ship look forward to a day on the beach, or water sports of some sort. Coming from Australia with it’s endless beaches we decide not to go there. We are dropped off at the jetty by the tender and walk around the area of the small port.

The Philippines, Borocaya

As we approach Borocaya, the local fishing boats seem to fly like butterflies as they skim across the water.
The Philippines, Borocaya

Fishing boats on the small beach next to the jetty.
The Philippines, Borocaya

Some cram into the truck and go off to the resort.
The Philippines, Borocaya

In the age of selfies, schoolgirls love to have their picture taken.
The Philippines, Borocaya

I can’t quite make out if this dwelling is occupied or not.

Puerto Pricessa

Puerto Princessa is on the western Philippine island of Palawan. In December 1944, at the Plaza Cuartel, more than a hundred prisoners of war were killed in what has become know as the Palawan Massacre.

In 2007 Puerto Princessa became the 32nd, 1st class Highly Urbanised City (HUC) in the Philippines. From our point of view it looks like a very walkable place, so we will do just that.

The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

The port building is actually completely empty and is not used.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

The local transport comes in many varieties of this theme and is well used by all.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

Inside the Immaculate Conception Cathedral is an oasis of calm
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

Just love these signs including the artists credit.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

Once again it’s traffic, traffic, traffic.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

Rice is a dollar or so per kilo, and comes in many varieties
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

Where ever you need a chicken hit, KFC is there. And then there is the Vape shop.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

Some live here …
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

… and next door they live here.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

They don’t seem to think much of drugs in the Philippines.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

The Puerto Princessa Baywalk Park, they say, is a ‘Waterfront path for strolling and cycling’
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

Many still rely on fishing for a living.
The Philippines, Puerto Pricessa

As we set sail once more, we are accompanied by numbers of Brown Boobys who spend much of their life on the wing.

Vietnam

Our visit to Vietnam is a disappointment. We dock at the port of Pho My which is a huge container port seemingly in the middle of nowhere. At a port talk we are told that there is nothing to see outside the port. Tours to Ho Chi Min City or Saigon, as most still call it, are available if you would like a bus ride of two and a half hours each way, at a cost of several hundred dollars.

For the first time, we decide to spend the day on the ship and not bother to go ashore.

Vietnam, Pho My

Containers as far as the eye can see.

Thailand

Disappointingly, the port of Laem Chabang in Thailand where we dock, is also a huge container port another two and a half hour bus ride from Bangkok. This time, however, there is a tour for us. We decide to visit the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya.

In 1981, Mr Lek Viriyaphan started to construct this quite extraordinary Sanctuary which is still being built to this day; a bit like the Sagrada Família in Barcelona. It is carved entirely from native hardwoods, by hand with no nails. It is to commemorate the seven pillars of truth. For those who might wish to know what these are please visit The Sanctuary of Truth official website

Thailand, The Santury of Truth

Laem Chabang, another huge container port and nothing much else.
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

The Sanctuary of Truth sits next to the beach in Pattaya
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

We are to get a guided tour. Since it is still a building site, we all have to wear hard hats.
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

In we go
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

Three headed elephants abound
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

Musicians escort us into the interior
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

The work goes on … all by hand.
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

The central gallery is very impressive.
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

The deities gaze down at us.
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

Work in progress
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

The detail is quite amazing.
Thailand, The Santury of Truth

Elephant ride anyone?

The end of our journey

The drive back to the ship brings us down to earth with a bump. The attitude to cannabis has changed in waves through the decades since it first gained prominence in the swinging sixties, prompting the ‘War on Drugs’. In the Philippines it is strictly prohibited with some of the harshest penalties on the planet; in Hong Kong we were warned that even medicinal CBD is considered a dangerous drug.

In Thailand it is legal although there are moves to change that. What a lot of fuss to make, especially when you consider that alcohol (we all like a drink, don’t we) is legal and freely available almost universally and yet causes untold misery when it is abused.

Just saying …

Thailand, Pattaya

Cannabis shops are everywhere along the streets of Pattaya
Thailand, Pattaya

You can even get a franchise.
Singapore

We arrive in Singapore in the early morning where our journey ends.
Kyoto GOlden Temple

Jacqui wanted to reassure you that I was actually still around, so here we are at the Golden Temple in Kyoto in the selfie lineup.

So what did we learn? The main thing is probably to do with ports. If you are looking at a cruise, it is a really good idea to look carefully at the ports where you stop along the way. If it says port ‘so and so’ for ‘such and such’ (like Laem Chabang for Bangkok or Pho My for Saigon) take careful note.

On the other hand we do like the overall cruiseiness of cruising and really enjoy the ocean.

If you celebrate Christmas, have a merry one; if you don’t, enjoy the break; if you don’t get a break, make it worth it;

May the new year bring all you wish for.

Enjoy!

Alan

 

 

 


6 responses to “Taiwan, Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand et al.”

  1. Lynn Ayiotis says:

    Great read. Thank you xx

  2. Danielle says:

    Lots of colours and beautiful temples photos. Loved the small temple in the middle of the beautiful Nan Lian garden.
    Merry Christmas to you too!
    A big hug to you both.

  3. Andrew says:

    You have certainly whet my appetite for cruising! I have been on a couple in the Mediterranean and loved it. Time for one through Asia although maybe ports that are not so industrial. Apparently the smaller ships can dock at places closer to town.
    I remember the old Hong Kong airport at Kai Tak very well and had to to my final check ride as a Captain there. All very stressful!

  4. Tracey says:

    Quite the travellers you two. Your posts certainly open up the world for us non-travellers. Fascinating. Have a wonderful Christmas and New Year wherever you will be. With metta, Tracey 🎄🎉☮️🙏

  5. Elizabeth says:

    Your photos continue to reveal and to delight! Thanks again!

  6. Jonathan says:

    Great memories Alan and Jacqui – and I learned a lot.
    And was reminded of Hong Kong/Kowloon.
    Thanks for all those atmospheric pictures.

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