Taiwan, Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand et al.
Posted on Saturday, December 16th, 2023 at 1:50 pm
Firstly, I apologise for another travel tale so soon after the last, but unless I get it out now it will disappear rapidly into the big black hole of the past. These articles are, at least in part, an aid to Jacqui and I to remember what we did, and when. Oh, the joys of getting older!
The Westerdam
Thought I might start with a mention of the ship we are living on. The Westerdam is a mid sized ship accommodating around two thousand cruisers. We always appreciate unpacking at the beginning of the cruise and repacking at the end. In between we are fed, watered, entertained and live in comfort as well as visiting interesting places.
Taiwan
So leaving Shinigaki and Japan, leaves us wondering what is to come next. We have always been curious about Taiwan and look forward to the coming visit.
Keelung
Keelung is the first of two ports in Taiwan and is relatively small, without the high tower blocks of many cities these days. It is the jump off point for Taipei for those who can afford the tours. We will content ourselves with a walk around this town.
From the ship we can see the white head of the statue of Guanyin, goddess of compassion, high on the hill in the Zhongzheng Park. This is the biggest such statue in southeast Asia. So off we go to have a closer look. It doesn’t look that far away. Mmmmm!
Well, the statue of Guanyin is a long way up and we make it back in need of a rest.
Kaohsiung
Our next stop is Kaohsiung City; a major industrial port in the south of Taiwan. The ship docks at the cruise port after several kilometres along a waterway lined with container facilities. The cruise port is very modern. We need to find a pharmacy and our visit consists of walking there and back. All other attractions are too far away for us.
Hong Kong and Kowloon
And so we move on to Hong Kong and after all that reporting of disturbances in past years, it will be interesting to be here for two days. Our arrival at the enormous cruise terminal in Kowloon is greeted with dark clouds and showers but we line up to take the shuttle bus into town, and arrive at … a huge shopping centre. Not really what we had in mind. Except, of course, we find a Starbucks and welcome mugs of flat white, before the rain drives us back to the ship.
A new day and some sunshine so we once again line up for the shuttle. Yesterday we noticed signs for a garden temple and nunnery, so today we are off to explore. The garden is called the Nan Lian Garden and is slap bang in the middle of Kowloon right next to the Plaza Hollywood.
The Philippines
We make two visits to the Philippines, one on the way to Hong Kong and the other after. There are three stops on three different islands for Manila, Borocaya and Porto Princessa.
Manila is a huge city of around fifteen million people; not really our cup of tea, as it were.
Our first stop in Manila sees us once again on that shuttle bus; once again being taken to a shopping mall; once again returning to the ship having downed some Starbucks coffee. Not feeling impressed.
For our second visit we are making a valiant effort to be more enthusiastic and so start by walking out of the port. The port road dumps us onto a major three lane road full to the brim with traffic of every size: container trucks, jeepneys, scooters, cars, buses and little men on peddle powered tricycles. Since our aim is to get to the Rizal Park, we have to cross this road. A couple of attempts end in abject failure, even when the traffic was stopped.
One attempt finds us surrounded by stationary trucks. Then we remember that none of the drivers would be able to see us should the traffic start moving. We beat a hasty retreat.
We walk alongside all this traffic for a while until there is a crossing with four police persons in charge and at last manage to reach the other side of the road. Phew! Onwards to Rizal Park.
José Rizal
José Rizal is a hero of the Philippines. He was a writer and a key member of the Filipino Propaganda Movement which advocated for changes in the colony under the Spanish occupation. It was his inspiration that led eventually to Philippine independence from first the Spanish and then the Americans. He was executed by the Spanish in 1896 and Rizal park is a moving memorial to that event.
We spend some time in this part of the park, and then move on to the Chinese and Japanese gardens before entering the old part of Manila. The Intramuros is the old walled city which has managed to resist the tower block plague. We are tempted by one of those little men on a tricycle and he takes us for an extremely uncomfortable ride through the old city and back to the port. Most Filipinos are altogether smaller than we western giants and the tricycle was designed to fit them … not us.
Borocaya
Borocaya is a resort island and many passengers on the ship look forward to a day on the beach, or water sports of some sort. Coming from Australia with it’s endless beaches we decide not to go there. We are dropped off at the jetty by the tender and walk around the area of the small port.
Puerto Pricessa
Puerto Princessa is on the western Philippine island of Palawan. In December 1944, at the Plaza Cuartel, more than a hundred prisoners of war were killed in what has become know as the Palawan Massacre.
In 2007 Puerto Princessa became the 32nd, 1st class Highly Urbanised City (HUC) in the Philippines. From our point of view it looks like a very walkable place, so we will do just that.
Vietnam
Our visit to Vietnam is a disappointment. We dock at the port of Pho My which is a huge container port seemingly in the middle of nowhere. At a port talk we are told that there is nothing to see outside the port. Tours to Ho Chi Min City or Saigon, as most still call it, are available if you would like a bus ride of two and a half hours each way, at a cost of several hundred dollars.
For the first time, we decide to spend the day on the ship and not bother to go ashore.
Thailand
Disappointingly, the port of Laem Chabang in Thailand where we dock, is also a huge container port another two and a half hour bus ride from Bangkok. This time, however, there is a tour for us. We decide to visit the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya.
In 1981, Mr Lek Viriyaphan started to construct this quite extraordinary Sanctuary which is still being built to this day; a bit like the Sagrada Família in Barcelona. It is carved entirely from native hardwoods, by hand with no nails. It is to commemorate the seven pillars of truth. For those who might wish to know what these are please visit The Sanctuary of Truth official website
The end of our journey
The drive back to the ship brings us down to earth with a bump. The attitude to cannabis has changed in waves through the decades since it first gained prominence in the swinging sixties, prompting the ‘War on Drugs’. In the Philippines it is strictly prohibited with some of the harshest penalties on the planet; in Hong Kong we were warned that even medicinal CBD is considered a dangerous drug.
In Thailand it is legal although there are moves to change that. What a lot of fuss to make, especially when you consider that alcohol (we all like a drink, don’t we) is legal and freely available almost universally and yet causes untold misery when it is abused.
Just saying …
So what did we learn? The main thing is probably to do with ports. If you are looking at a cruise, it is a really good idea to look carefully at the ports where you stop along the way. If it says port ‘so and so’ for ‘such and such’ (like Laem Chabang for Bangkok or Pho My for Saigon) take careful note.
On the other hand we do like the overall cruiseiness of cruising and really enjoy the ocean.
If you celebrate Christmas, have a merry one; if you don’t, enjoy the break; if you don’t get a break, make it worth it;
May the new year bring all you wish for.
Enjoy!
Alan
Great read. Thank you xx
Lots of colours and beautiful temples photos. Loved the small temple in the middle of the beautiful Nan Lian garden.
Merry Christmas to you too!
A big hug to you both.
You have certainly whet my appetite for cruising! I have been on a couple in the Mediterranean and loved it. Time for one through Asia although maybe ports that are not so industrial. Apparently the smaller ships can dock at places closer to town.
I remember the old Hong Kong airport at Kai Tak very well and had to to my final check ride as a Captain there. All very stressful!
Quite the travellers you two. Your posts certainly open up the world for us non-travellers. Fascinating. Have a wonderful Christmas and New Year wherever you will be. With metta, Tracey 🎄🎉☮️🙏
Your photos continue to reveal and to delight! Thanks again!
Great memories Alan and Jacqui – and I learned a lot.
And was reminded of Hong Kong/Kowloon.
Thanks for all those atmospheric pictures.