Sydney, Australia

The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry, so they say, and we have reason to confirm this idea.

The flight from Maroochydore, our local airport, will supposedly drop us in Sydney around two in the afternoon with plenty of time to get to the boat before it sails at five. (oh, did I mention we are off on another little boat trip! Perhaps the title gave it away.)

The first clue that something might be awry (what a great word that is) is an announcement that our flight is delayed by one hour. Mmmmm. Shouldn’t be too bad, and anyway the airport coffee is good so we while away the hour and are soon aboard our flight. For anyone who hasn’t been seeing the news it seems that great stretches of Queensland, New South Wales and South Australia are on fire with the temperatures breaking all previous records and the years long drought leaving everything tinder dry.

I am reminded of Nero fiddling while Rome burned …. In Australia, Prime Minister Morrison chooses to take a family holiday while Australia is burning. Much disgust has been shown by all!

Anyway … the flight down south showed fire after fire burning in NSW and we arrive in a Sydney shrouded in smoke from the huge fires in the Blue Mountains. We board the train into Wynyard station in the CBD expecting to catch a ferry to the White Bay Cruise Terminal where the boat is moored. My phone rings. It is the cruise company checking that we are still coming and no there isn’t any such ferry to be caught.

Off the train we hop and into a taxi and arrive at the boat a little after four only to find that we are the last passengers to board. Feels a bit like VIP treatment … met at the taxi, straight though immigration and customs and escorted to our room, all within 10 minutes. By the time we catch our breath the ship is on the move.

The gangways look relieved with their job done for the day.

The Sydney Opera House appears under the Harbour Bridge in the smokey afternoon light

As we make for Sydney Heads the smoke haze turns the sun into a fiery portent of the devastating fires to come in NSW. 1000 homes will be burnt to the ground.

First Stop – New Zealand

The Bay of Islands – Waitangi and Paihia

History tends to be troubled in New Zealand, as it is in Australia, since most of it was written by the settlers (or invaders or conquerers depending which side of the fence you are on) who sailed to this part of the world from Europe and “discovered” these southern lands. Of course we are told there was no one living in Australia. (Just the oldest civilisation on the planet, in place for maybe 80,000 years, but we can safely ignore them). So one Captain Cook claimed Australia for England.

New Zealand faired slightly better in that the Maori people did manage a treaty which gave them some rights in return for land, although this is controversial to this day. The treaty was signed at Waitangi which is where the tender drops us on a mild day and we walk through the Treaty Grounds to the information centre. Unfortunately, there is a $40 charge for each of us to enter and so we turn away and take the coast walk to the village of Paihia.

We enter the Bay of Islands in the early morning light.

The pilot scrambles up the rope ladder to help guide the ship into harbour. Rather him than me!

We walk along the coastal path to Paihia with the Maasdam out in the bay.

An Oyster Catcher seems quite untroubled by our presence.

The New Zealand “Christmas Trees” are in full bloom.

The most popular place in town is outside the library with its free Wifi … a modern addiction!

We stroll around Paihia, take advantage of the WiFi at the library, feel dismayed that the coffee shops have closed early in spite of a cruise ship being in the bay. Jacqui does manage to find an umbrella to replace the one lost in Scotland earlier in the year. Appropriately, it is decorated with yellow Kiwis … the bird not the people.

Auckland

Auckland is the most populous city in New Zealand but not the capital city. That honour belongs to Wellington on the southern tip of the north island. The approach to Auckland through Stanley Bay is a joy with its abundance of boats and the city standing proud over the Harbour.

A bit of careful parking is required at the quayside of Auckland.

Our addiction to individual transport is filling the streets everywhere as more and more new cars arrive.

As we have been to Auckland several times we only have a few things on our list. The first is a decent cup of coffee accompanied by free Wifi (thank you BNZ for providing this on the streets of Auckland) and to find a replacement for the broken strap on Jacqui’s hat. That a hat should be strapped on is essential when tendering. International regulations insist the ships put nothing into the water, and this includes hats blown off when reboarding the ship from a tender. The tender crew often have to retrieve such things from the water.

After making several enquiries, we have found a mens shoe shop and the question “Have you got any long shoe laces” meets with some sympathy. A young man disappears into the bowels of the shop, returning with a box of various laces some of which will be ideal. “How much?” we ask. He replies “They are free. We used to charge a dollar but the shop accounting system couldn’t handle it, so they are now free!”

Having satisfied our essential needs we go off in search of the market supposedly adjoining Victoria Park, only to find it is a night market which doesn’t start until four in the afternoon, by which time we will be moving on once more.

On returning to the ship, we notice a change. Whereas many of the passengers were in an older age group we suddenly seem flooded with young people. It turns out that the New Zealand Youth Choir is using the itinerary of this cruise to allow them to undertake a tour of the pacific islands. We are to be treated to two concerts on the ship and witness a couple of others on the streets of some islands.

There are some fine old trees in Victoria Park.

A tug enjoys a few doughnuts as we leave Auckland.

Devonport on the other side of Stanly Bay, just for Terry and Clare!

Tonga

Nuku’alofa

After a long sail from Auckland, we now feel we are really in the South Pacific amid those islands Captain Cook sailed through so long ago. The first of these is the island of Nuku’alofa in Tonga. Tonga is the only one of these remote island groups not to be colonised by Europeans and is still an independent Kingdom.

Approaching the islands of Tonga in the early morning light.

The king’s palace is next to the dock. Not quite like the palaces of Europe!

I think he must have drawn the short straw!

The town is small and very walkable. It is humid and quite hot with an almost continual traffic jam in the main street. We spend an hour or two wandering around a few blocks before returning to the ship.

There is some evidence of bureaucratic grandeur.

The cathedral is now closed after suffering considerable damage during a typhoon and alas there is no money to affect repairs.

Neiafu, Vava’u

Out next stop is the small island of Vava’u and the town of Neiafu. We spend the day strolling the streets and enjoying a coffee and coconut milk in a cafe overlooking the bay … and of course, using their Wifi!

This is one of the Tongan islands that produce the Mabe, or half pearls, which are seeded into the shell of the oyster. This from the Tongan Ministry of Fisheries –

“The Tongan pearl farming industry has chosen to differentiate itself from the other round pearl producing Pacific nations by producing the mabé, or “half” pearl. The mabé pearl is Tonga’s only locally produced pearl and is grown in the “winged pearl oyster” (Pteria penguin). Mabé pearl production requires lower technical inputs and lower investment, with a lower level of associated financial risk and shorter production time. Furthermore, the entire production and crafting process can be completed using only local technicians and artisans.”

Reflections in the early morning light.

The beautifully crafted Mabe, or half pearl, locally seeded on the island of Vavau

The very much local, fruit, vegetable and fish market.

The men still wear a traditional tupenu or sarong, and seat belts are definitely optional

Another one bites the dust … development is everywhere.

Christmas sale perhaps …

Tonga is very much a Christian community

The stained glass window in the Church of St Joseph the Worker on Vavau

Time for coffee and WiFi overlooking the bay.

The almost still standing fuel pump

A romantic image of island life on Vavau.

The sky is breathtaking as we leave Vavau

Alofi, Niue

Niue is a self governing island state in free association with New Zealand. The population has New Zealand citizenship with an increasing number moving to New Zealand and so the population is now less than 1500 down from 5000 a few years ago.

Locals know it as “the Rock” and it has a very fixed jetty where the tenders tie up. It is also subject to the swells which roll in from the Pacific Ocean and the combination, on the day we arrive, is sufficient to prevent us going ashore. We felt very sorry for the locals who had no doubt got their stalls together for the infrequent visit of a cruise ship. So near and yet so far.

The jetty on Niue is fixed and the two metre swells make docking impossible for the tenders.

Fiji

Savusavu, Vanua Levu

Fiji is said to consist of 333 islands, although that seems a rather convenient number.

The first island we reach is Savusavu. The tenders are lowered and passengers get ready to go ashore only to be stopped by the captain. There have been outbreaks of measles throughout the islands with Samoa being the worst hit with 70 or so deaths reported. Although there have been no reported deaths in Tonga there have been some cases of measles. The island of Savusavu has no cases and are reluctant to let any passengers ashore. After much negotiation between the medical authorities on Savusavu, the captain of the Maasdam and the head office of the cruise line a compromise is reached. Those born before 1959 and those with proof they have been vacinated can go ashore. This means that many passengers will have to remain on the ship.

Approaching Savusavu Island

Several hours later we are allowed ashore. Savusavu is a small but vibrant community and the main street is abuzz with stalls, shops and a busy bus station.

Selling sugar water is a thriving business everywhere including this bus station.

A shop that sells just about anything.

We want your dollars please!

Not in too much of a hurry is the usual way

The bus station is very busy with a number of buses arriving and departing while we are here.

Given the likelihood of sea level rise, would you buy land on this lsland?

We are treated to another skyshow as we leave Savusavu.

Suva, the capital of Fiji

Suva is a surprisingly pleasant town … perhaps it is because we have arrived on a Sunday, when many businesses are closed. We go ashore and do our usual walk around going in the general direction of the botanical gardens. On the way there we are directed by a local to the “event” which turns out to be a busy market, the number of plant stalls showing it to be for the locals rather than tourists. We find the botanical gardens and the expensive to enter museum and head back to the ship.

On the way back we look carfully for a cafe for our coffee and Wifi fix. Everywhere seems to be closed with one exception. Eventually we find ourselves in, would you believe it of all places, MacDonalds, enjoying their air conditioning while we drink iced coffee/chocolate and use their free Wifi.

WiFi and broadband is everything these days.

This chinese communications ship is one of two in Suva harbour

All the craft stalls have been corralled into this multi story craft centre which nobody visits. Bureaucratic control!

Flowering trees are everywhere.

More bureaucratic control. The peace park full of picnic tables but heaven forbid that you eat at them.

Sunday market under the flowering trees.

Everyone loves the movies!

Dravuni Island

The next stop is purely for the beach lovers. Dravuni island is one square kilometre in size, with a population of 120 and you go there for the beach. We are told by some that walked across the island to the other side, that the beach there is covered in plastic, which washes ashore on the ocean currents.

First the list of things you can’t do.

The beach is the thing, coconuts and all.

Jacqui decides not to wait for the tender and swims ashore

Actually, I jest here. What actually happens is not quite so nice. Jacqui decides to give snorkelling a go and donning her mask sets out into the water. After swimming about for a bit and coming back towards the beach, her foot and ankle decided to stop working and became very painful. I help her from the water and to a seat on the beach, and it takes quite a while for her foot to settle down enough to return to the jetty and board the tender.

It’s those coconut palms which do it.

Port Denarau, Nadi

On the other side of the main island of Fiji is Nadi and Port Denarau.

I’ll give the Fijians one thing … they have managed to get all we tourists into one small area with an international airport nearby. All the major hotel chains have resort complexes here, cheek by jowl along the beach. The hop on, hop off bus doesn’t go to Nadi, but just circulates around the resorts. Port Denarau itself is just a place to buy expensive stuff, eat and drink.

Resort style accommodation

There’s money here.

The NZ Youth Choir give a concert for the locals. They were really good.

Have a selfie with the cannibal before he clubs you to death and eats you.

Nothing quite like an ice cream

Most of the big stores are here.

An indian minor bird sings to me while I rest on a bench

Oh, that’s where I left the boat!

New Caledonia

Tardine, Mare

Our first stop in New Caledonia is on the island of Mare. This small community reminds us very much of Bali in the 1980’s before the major developments began. There were no tourist shops and the main attraction was the walk to the “Aquarium Naturel” which is a pool completely surrounded by rock but which has access to the ocean. It is a very tranquil place full of fish.

The signage needs some repairs

In the pool fish abound.

Thatch is still used on some of the houses

Lots of money to spend? Take a zodiac.

You have a problem, mister?

A traditional dwelling

Mmmm. Bit of a worry that …

Impermanence

Post collected monday to friday

The welcoming committee sang us ashore

Flowers for all!

We all love to take photos to remind us where we’ve been

Noumea

Our last port of call is Noumea, a strong favourite for visitors, with a strong French influence and good beaches. Our target this time is the aquarium to catch a few of the fish we missed by not going snorkelling. The aquarium was wonderful and we spend a couple of hours enchanted by the fish. Our only question mark was the small tank for the turtles. Somehow they feel different to tiny tropical fish.

Noumea is a popular modern town in New Caledonia

Our selfie with the fish

It’s difficult not to get carried away with the pictures

Elo!

What are you staring at?

The coral was spectacular

The lion fish

Children just love aquariums

We leave Noumea with a sign of the times – old things made new – long may it continue

The Maasdam

For any of you who are interested in the ship, I continue with a few images of the places that we don’t visit. Basically, we treat these cruises as an opportunity to travel, but also as an opportunity to retreat. It is like a fully catered retreat with comfortable accommodation and a few interesting visits along the way. Plenty of opportunity to exercise, like the stairs from deck 5 to deck 11 each morning for breakfast, and the promenade deck to walk around and watch for any passing albatross. Lots of opportunity to people watch and time to read. Meet people or not, as you feel.

There are activities on the ship, however, which don’t interest us much. Lots of shiny baubles to attract ones attention.

I rather like this sculpture by the swimming pool

Not really our scene

Lots of things for Xmas

The shops are shuttered when in port

The martini bar

Money to spare?

We did, however, enjoy the traditional European Christmas decorations, complete with gingerbread houses, that appeared, as if by magic one morning.

And so we return to Sydney in the early morning at the end of our journey.

The end of this tale

So what did we feel about the Pacific Islands? I guess my image was born of the adventures of the early explorers, tales from my Dad, himself a seaman, and talk of palm fringed lagoons and long white beaches. The reality seemed a little different. On returning to our home in Noosa … what did we find? Palm fringed, long white sandy beaches … indeed, our garden is full of palm trees, bromeliads and other tropical plants, the swimming pool is a perfect temperature at the moment and life is good!

On another note, in the weeks before this trip we had a number of medical appointments and procedures. Among others, I would like to give a shout out to the folks at the Sunshine Coast Eye Hospital, in particular Dr Peter Jeffries, who gave both Jacqui and I new eyes by removing our cataracts. Jacqui no longer needs to wear glasses and my sight is better that I can ever remember.

May you all be well and happy and may all you wish for be yours in the new year to come.

Enjoy …. Alan

P.S. As I lay in our bed on the ship and looked up at the ceiling, my newly clear eyes spotted the instructions in the following image which I leave you with.

Amazing that you need to spell it out, really!